Washington DC: the nation’s capital, home to some of the world’s most recognisable monuments and buildings and the winners of the 2019 World Series. As we explored the city we discovered the stories behind these famous structures, learned about the people who inspired them and were moved by the memorials dedicated to world events that shaped this country’s, and the world’s, history. From seeing the World War II memorial illuminated and visiting the Capitol Building to catching the sun setting on the National Archives Museum and walking the National Mall, we found ourselves drawn to the city as we clocked up 59,327 steps over 3 days.
I almost broke our camera with all the picture-taking opportunities, even by my standards 😂 We’ll leave you here with a tour of our favourite pictures of Washington DC.
The White House. Home and workplace of every president since John Adams, the site of the White House at 1600 Pennsylvania Avenue NW was chosen by George Washington in 1791.Washington Monument. Seen from every corner from Washington DC, this monument honours President George Washington. It was erected in 1884 and is held together entirely by weight and gravity. It is the tallest unreinforced stone masonry structure in the world.The National Museum of African American History and Culture. This museum celebrates the richness and diversity of the nation’s African American heritage and the people within it who have left their stamp on history. Hours can be spent in this building reading, hearing and seeing exhibits and highlights from Harriet Tubman’s hymnal to Muhammed Ali’s boxing gloves and so much in between. We actually ran out of time in the museum.A serious game of frisbee on the National Mall in front of the Capitol BuildingThe Lincoln Memorial Reflecting Pool. It is the city’s largest reflecting pool at 2,029ft / 618 m long and 167 feet / 51 m wide.Lincoln Memorial. The 175 tonne statue of the 16th President of the United States gazes out over the National Mall towards the Capitol Building. Abraham Lincoln was President from 4 March 4 1861 until his assassination at Ford’s Theater on 15 April 1865.Vietnam Veterans Memorial Wall. The wall lists the names of over 58,000 servicemen and women who gave their lives in service in the Vietnam Conflict. Korean War Veterans Memorial Statues. The memorial commemorates the 5.8 million Americans who served in the U.S. armed services during the three-year Korean War. The 19 stainless steel statues represent an advance party of fourteen Army, three Marine, one Navy and one Air Force members. They are positioned in such a way that from any point around the memorial it appears that a statue is looking in your direction.National Archives Museum. Home to the Charters of Freedom – the Declaration of Independence, Constitution, and Bill of Rights – the National Archives also holds other important national documents such as the Emancipation Proclamation. This is one of my favourite photos and taken by complete chance as we were crossing the road with the sun setting and illuminating the top part of the building. No filters or editing done on this photo!World War II Memorial. This photo captures just a small part of the memorial complex. The memorial honors the 16 million who served in the US armed forces during World War II including over 400,000 who died.Franklin Delano Roosevelt Memorial. This memorial honours Franklin D Roosevelt, America’s 32nd president and the only one who served longer than two terms. This depiction of FDR and his beloved dog Fala is only a very small part of the entire memorial which reflects the different eras of his presidency including the Great Depression and World War II.The United States Marine Corps War Memorial also known as the Iwo Jima Memorial. It depicts one of the most historic battles of World War II, the battle of Iwo Jima, and is dedicated to all marines who have given their lives to the service of America.The Smithsonian Institution Building, also known as The Castle. Built in the 1800s, the The Castle is the original Smithsonian Museum and today is the Visitor Center and headquarters for the Smithsonian Institution which comprises 20 museums and galleries and the National Zoological Park.The Arts and Industries Building is the second oldest Smithsonian Institution building and opened to the public as the US National Museum in October 1881The United States Capitol. Also known as the Capitol Building, it has housed the meeting chambers of the House of Representatives and the Senate for two centuries. The Capitol held its first session of the United States Congress with both chambers in session on 17 November 1800.The Apotheosis of Washington. Standing in the Rotunda and looking up at the ceiling in the center of the Capitol Building Dome, this painting depicts George Washington’s ascension into heaven and was painted by Constantino Brumidi in 1865.The ceiling of the National Statutory Hall in the Capitol Building. This room was the meeting place of the US House of Representatives from 1807–1857.This room in the Capitol Building served as the original Supreme Court Chamber from 1810 to 1860.On offer at the Capitol Visitor Center cafeteriaThe United States Capitol by nightThe Willard Hotel on Pennsylvania Avenue originally opened in 1847. Martin Luther King, Jr wrote his famous “I Have A Dream” speech in his hotel room at the Willard leading up to the March on Washington on 28 March 1963. President Ulysses S Grant was also a frequent visitor to the Willard during his presidency, where he would sit in the lobby and enjoy his post-workday whiskey and cigar.Inside the Willard Hotel, complete with harpist
Washington DC, you are magnificent, both by day and by night. Thank you!
We started our Maryland visit in Annapolis: state capital, former temporary national capital from 1783-1784 and home to the United States Naval Academy since 1845. As we were the only ones brave enough to brace the cold weather, we had a fantastic tour of the Academy campus, better known as The Yard, with Mike our personal guide. A full two hours was spent walking through the buildings learning how the students, or midshipmen, spend their four years here living, studying and socialising before being commissioned as officers into either the Navy or Marines upon graduation.
Mike was brilliant, answering all our questions and sharing in-depth knowledge about the Academy and its history and traditions before confessing at the end of the tour that while his sons are in the Navy, he actually served in the Army 😂
Statue of Bill the Goat. The Navy mascot is a real goat and Bill XXXVI currently reigns as the 39th mascot.The Navy fosters an on-going rivalry with the Army, particularly when it comes to sports. On display are the winning footballs from 1890.Shell from an 16 inch gun on an American battleship. Its accuracy is such that it can hit a dime from 22 miles away. The shell weighs one ton.The Rotunda of Bancroft Hall, with steps leading up to Memorial HallStatue of Tecumseh. Students toss pennies at his quiver for good luck in exams and athletic contests.The Naval Academy ChapelThe bronze and marble sacrophagus of John Paul Jones (1747-1792). John Paul Jones was a Revolutionary War hero and is often credited with being the father of the U.S. Navy.Halsey Field Hall houses a 200-meter synthetic track, squash and tennis courts, a weight room and a rock climbing wall
Our stopover night in Baltimore gave us the opportunity to sample Maryland crab cakes. We headed to Maisy’s and were not disappointed. Expecting cakes of crab mixed with mashed potato (like we would get at home), it turns out that Maryland crab cakes are scrumptious parcels made up entirely of crab. They were so good, one may have also been had for dessert.
Maryland crab cakes with chilli aioli
Heading north of Baltimore we stopped at Antietam National Park. It is the site of the Battle of Antietam which preceded the Battle of Gettysburg by ten months. While Gettysburg is considered the turning point of the Civil War, the battle that took place at Antietam on 17 September 1862 is also considered one of the most important of the war. The Union Army effectively stopped Confederate General Lee’s attempt to invade a Northern State and this battle led to President Lincoln issuing the Preliminary Emancipation Proclamation on 22 September 1862. However it was at a high cost: it remains the bloodiest battle in all American military history with over 23,000 men listed as killed, wounded, captured or missing in a 12 hour period.
Just like at Gettysburg, it was eerily chilling to stand on the site of the battle and imagine the events that took place around us. Also sobering was to think of the people of Antietam who fled their homes when the fighting commenced only to return afterwards to a war-ravaged landscape filled with thousands of soldiers who were wounded, dying or dead. It was simply beyond comprehension for us.
Dunker Church. Built in 1852, this church was a focal point for Union attacks on the morning of the battleAntietam was the first American battlefield photographed before the dead were buried. This photo was taken two days after the battle by Alexander Gardner. The church in the background is the same Dunker Church in the photo above.This 24 acre cornfield witnessed three hours of fighting during which the Confederate Louisiana Brigade suffered over 60 percent casualties in just 30 minutes. Union forces camped in the farmhouse in the background the night before the battle.This was the site of the Mumma family home which the Confederate Army burned to the ground to prevent Union sharpshooters from using it. The Mummas had already fled their home to safer ground before it was destroyed. They rebuilt this house in 1863.Sunken Road (also known as Bloody Lane). Fighting took place on this farm lane for a further three hours.Burnside Bridge. The Union Army eventually captured the bridge and crossed Antietam Creek which effectively forced the Confederates back towards Sharpsburg.Following the Emancipation Proclamation, the freedom of individual slaves was proven by possession of a document such as this one manumitting (releasing) them from enslavement. This manumission document belonged to a Miss Nancy Camel.
Our final stop in Maryland was just ten minutes from Antietam in a town called Boonsboro which is home to author Nora Roberts. As a Nora Roberts fan who has read her Inn BoonsBoro trilogy, it was pretty neat to see the Inn and surrounding businesses that also feature in the books.
The Inn BoonsBoro is owned and was restored by Nora Roberts. The original hotel dates back to the 1790s.Turn The Page Bookstore is across the road from the Inn and was opened by Nora Roberts’ husband Bruce Wilder. Inside the bookstore is a haven for Nora Roberts fansVesta Pizzeria, owned by Nora Roberts’ son, also features in the books
Maryland you are our 30th state and you have been wonderful to us. We’re off to Washington DC now for monuments, museums and a glimpse inside the Capitol!
“Four score and seven years ago our fathers brought forth on this continent a new nation, conceived in Liberty, and dedicated to the proposition that all men are created equal.” – from The Gettysburg Address by Abraham Lincoln, 19 November 1863
One of the greatest speeches in American history, President Lincoln’s famous Address was delivered after the Battle of Gettysburg was won by the Union Army over the Confederates. The Battle of Gettysburg is considered the most important engagement of the American Civil War and the turning point of the war. We arrived at Gettysburg National Park to learn more about what happened on 1-3 July 1863 and proceeded to have a superb day beyond what we expected. We absolutely recommend a visit here to anyone who has not been.
Our visit started with a short movie narrated by Morgan Freeman, giving us the background to the Civil War and the lead-up to the events at Gettysburg. Following the movie we immersed ourselves in a cyclorama painted by French artist Paul Philippoteaux depicting Pickett’s Charge, the Confederate attack on the Union forces on the third day of the Battle. We had never experienced a cyclorama before and weren’t sure what to expect. For those who don’t know either, The Battle of Gettysburg cyclorama is an oil painting on canvas measuring 42ft/13m high and 377ft/115m in circumference (longer than a football field). It is wrapped around the walls of a purpose-made circular room and as we stood in the centre of it taking it in, light and sound effects literally brought the painting to life as intended. It is brilliant. The painting, completed in 1883, weighs five tonnes, four of which are the paint itself. It was impossible to photograph the entire painting but here are a few shots of sections of it.
Advertisement for the painting which was exhibited in Philadelphia in 1891
From the cyclorama we went into the museum which displays so much information it was virtually impossible to absorb it all in the time that we had. From the start of the Civil War through to the delivery of the Gettysburg Address to the assassination of President Lincoln, this museum is a treasure box of information and we wish we had had more time here but our day at Gettysburg wasn’t over yet.
Boarding a bus, we commenced a two hour drive through the Gettysburg National Park with our tour guide who all but gave us a one-man reenactment of the battle. We drove through the areas of the park where the battle took place, learning when, where and how the Union and Confederate Armies moved and attacked over the three days as well as seeing the cannons that remain and visiting the monuments that are placed throughout the vast expanse of the park. We have done many National Park visits on this road trip and they have all been excellent but Gettysburg was truly fantastic and so very moving.
Forney Field, site of the July 1st battlefieldThe Eternal Light Peace Memorial, dedicated by President Franklin Roosevelt in 1938 on the 75th anniversary of the battleThe State of Pennsylvania Monument is the largest monument on the Gettysburg battlefield. It lists the names of over 34,000 Pennsylvanians who were part of the battle.The State of Virginia Monument. It was the first of the Confederate State monuments at Gettysburg and is also the largest of the Confederate monuments on the Gettysburg battlefield. The Soldiers National Monument. The marble statues around the base of the monument represent History, War, Peace and Plenty and the Genius of Liberty stands atop the monument. This monuments stands very near to where it is believed President Lincoln delivered the Gettysburg address.The Lincoln Address Memorial, dedicated to the Gettysburg Address, stands in the National Cemetery
From the battlefields of Gettysburg to the farming fields of the Amish…
We traveled to Bird-In-Hand, the home of an extensive Amish community where we met Amish folk, had a horse-drawn buggy ride and visited a farm where we learned how these devout Christians live and work just as their ancestors did despite the changes that modern society around them have embraced. The Amish are strong in their faith, believing that a literal interpretation and application of the Bible will bring them closer to God. Dressed in traditional attire and going about their daily work while enduring being a tourist attraction for just being who they are, the Amish who we met were friendly, engaging and very welcoming. We also spent considerable time admiring their quilting and woodwork.
The Amish landscape is filled with barns, cows and corn cribs….. just like on TVOut and about as a familyWe were completely fascinated with the double decker clotheslines that are operated by pulleyOur horse and buggyThe work mules – a cross-mix of horse and donkey. These animals are HUGE.So many different patterned quiltsI had a hard time stopping Sammy sending one of everything back to Australia
On a slightly more personal note, one of the hardest things about being an expat living abroad is being so far from family, and the same rings true while being on an extended overseas holiday. A few days ago my aunt unexpectedly passed away and our thoughts have been with my Dad and my family in India as they have gathered to say goodbye to her. Rest in peace Eleyamma xx
We’re back in Pennsylvania and we began our Philadelphia story with a visit to the Reading Terminal Market, getting lost in the sights and aromas of the fresh food and produce on offer. Serving Philadelphia since 1893, the Reading Terminal Market is one of America’s oldest and largest public markets. The many and varied retailers include Bassetts Ice Cream, America’s oldest ice cream company.
A Philadelphia company and established in 1861, Bassetts was the first merchant to sign a lease at the Reading Terminal Market in 1892. It stands today in its original place in the market and is a fifth-generation family run business.
Dressed up in almost everything we brought to America in our clothes-for-cold-weather bag, we set out into the sub-zero wind chill factor that descended upon Philadelphia. We had a great day spent exploring the City of Brotherly Love and a just as great evening thawing out in our Airbnb 😂
Betsy Ross House. It is widely believed, though not confirmed, that Betsy Ross designed and sewed the first American flag.Elfreth’s Alley, the nation’s oldest continuously inhabited residential streetCarpenter’s Hall: The First Continental Congress met here in 1774 to air their grievances against Great BritainChrist Church Burial Ground, the resting place of five signers of the Declaration of Independence: Benjamin Franklin, Joseph Hewes, Francis Hopkinson, George Ross, and Dr. Benjamin RushThe grave of Benjamin Franklin and his wife Deborah. The grave is covered in thousands of pennies each year that are left by visitors, somewhat ironically, as a sign of respect to the man who coined the phrase “A penny saved is a penny earned”.Downtown Philadelphia with City Hall on the leftThe Free LibraryPhiladelphia Museum of Art with the steps Rocky made famous in the moviesPennsylvania Hospital. Founded in 1751 by Benjamin Franklin and Dr. Thomas Bond, Pennsylvania Hospital was the nation’s first established public hospital.The Benjamin Franklin Bridge crosses the Delaware River and connects Philadelphia with Camden, New JerseyLiberty Bell. The inscription reads “Proclaim liberty throughout all the land unto all inhabitants thereof.”
On the advice of locals we found ourselves at Jim’s Steaks in south Philadelphia for our Philly cheesesteak experience. Almost as good as the sandwich itself was watching the ingredients come together by the chef to make the sandwich in under ten seconds.
Jim’s Steaks opened in 1939 in this location on South StreetPhilly cheesesteak
We said goodbye to Philadelphia and headed to Valley Forge to continue our American Revolution history lesson. Valley Forge was the site of the 1777-78 winter encampment of the Continental Army. This encampment is considered a major turning point in the Revolution as it was during this time that the Continental Army was reorganized and emerged the following June as a well-disciplined and efficient fighting force against the British. With plenty of historical sites and monuments throughout the park, Valley Forge is well worth the visit.
Muhlenberg Huts: recreated huts depicting where General Muhlenberg‘s soldiers lived in Valley Forge, twenty men to a hutWashington’s Headquarters: the house where Washington and his officers lived and worked, overseeing and making plans for the encampment and the continuation of the war. Up to 25 people lived in the house including his wife Martha who joined him for four months out of the six spent in Valley Forge.Grand Parade: the vast valley at the center of the park where the Continental soldiers trained to work together as a single unit, notably under Baron Friedrich von Steuben. Accordingly, Grand Parade is often referred to as the birthplace of the United States Army as it stands today.National Memorial Arch, dedicated in 1917, is inscribed with the words: “Naked and starving as they are, we cannot enough admire the incomparable patience and fidelity of the soldiery” – Washington at Valley Forge, 16 February 1778Washington Memorial Chapel
From Valley Forge to Lancaster where we are staying for a few nights. We’ve had a fantastic albeit chilly few days but Pennsylvania, we’re not done with you yet!
Arriving at the ferry terminal in Lewes, we headed north towards Dover, specifically to the Dover Green Historic District. The Green in Dover is the city’s central square and is surrounded by buildings, many of which are original structures, some dating back to the 1700s. Of most significance on the Green is the site of the Golden Fleece Tavern where Delaware statesmen gathered to ratify the Constitution in 1787, making Delaware the first state to join the Union.
We did a superb tour with Eric who, complete in costume, colourfully painted Delaware’s history on the Green with stories about the buildings and their occupants. From the suffragette movement to a mysterious murder involving chocolates to the ratification of the Constitution it was a great journey back in time and a tour certainly well worth doing.
The John Bell House, the oldest wooden structure on the Green, dates back to 1787 when the Constitution was ratified in the Golden Fleece Tavern across the GreenEric, a First State Heritage Park historic interpreter and brilliant storytellerThe GreenThis was the home of Mr James P Wilds and was built in 1872. It was a mail-order frame house from the Sears catalogue and arrived as a kit which was then put together to create the house.Buildings lining the GreenThe home of Mr John Pennington, whose daughters were killed in 1898 by chocolates that arrived in the mail. Three thousand people attended the funeral in this house. Follow this link to read the story of the Poison Candy Murders. https://whyy.org/articles/100-year-old-murder-case-still-haunts-dover-delaware-video/The site of the Golden Fleece Tavern, birthplace of the First State, where the Constitution was ratified on 7th December 1787The Ridgely House, built in 1726. The first occupant was Dr Charles Greenbury Ridgely, a member of the Colonial and State legislative assemblies. The Ridgely family continue to live here today.
Also on the Green is the Old Statehouse which served as Delaware’s capitol building from 1792 to 1932. This beautifully preserved building is open for visitors to go inside and look around.
The Old StatehouseInside the Old StatehouseLegislative Mall with the state’s current capitol building, Legislative Hall, in the background
Just 20 minutes from Wilmington we visited Jessop’s Tavern for a bite to eat. Built in 1674 in Olde New Castle, the building has over the years been a barrel making business, residential housing and various restaurants and taverns. The current owners renamed the tavern after Abraham Jessop, the original owner.
All the staff are in period costumeColonial shepherd’s pie which is going to serve us for three meals
After staying in Wilmington for the night we paid a visit to Nemours Estate to see the mansion and French-style gardens built and designed by Alfred duPont in 1910. The 5-story, 77 room mansion and gardens were a gift for his second wife and was later his home with his third wife Bessie. Alfred duPont rose to prominence through his family’s gunpowder manufacturing company and went on to become an extremely wealthy financier and philanthropist. The estate was named after Nemours, the French town duPont’s family originated from. Today the estate shares the grounds with the Nemours Alfred I. duPont Hospital for Children, part of the Nemours Children’s Health System.
These 18th-century English gates came from Wimbledon Manor outside of LondonThe 47,000 square foot Nemours MansionThe gilded ceiling and chandelier in the reception hallThe conservatoryThe kitchenThe bowling alley which was originally used by only men but later welcomed the ladies of the house and their visitors, playing in their ballgowns and high heelsThe chandelier and tapestries came from FranceThe Vista (Long Walk) Garden from the front of the mansion looking down at the Colonnade, a memorial honouring duPont’s great-great-grandfather and great-grandfatherLooking up at the mansion from the end of the Vista GardenThe Maze Garden with the mansion in the background
Thank you First State ☺️ Our stay may have been brief but our history lesson here has been rich. Pennsylvania, you’re next!
Our journey in New Jersey began at the north end of Jersey Shore, at the Mount Mitchill Scenic Overlook. Mount Mitchill is the highest natural point on the Atlantic Seaboard between south Maine and the Yucatan Peninsula of Mexico. From here there are sweeping views of Sandy Hook Bay and on the horizon stands the Manhattan skyline. Also here is Monmouth County’s 9/11 Memorial honouring those who lost their lives in the tragedy.
The Manhattan skyline was visible with overcast skies but would look spectacular on a clear dayMonmouth County lost 147 residents on 11 September 2001The monument depicts an eagle flying away from Ground Zero with a mangled steel beam from one of the towers clutched in its talons
From Mount Mitchill we headed along Jersey Shore through the town of Sea Bright. Jersey Shore is the 141 mi/227km stretch of coast facing the Atlantic Ocean. As we drove along the affluent Ocean Avenue through Sea Bright and down to Seaside Heights we gaped at the luxury seaside homes, now left abandoned for the winter with no one to be seen on the streets.
Residents have their own gated staircases to lead them over the wall that shields the beach from the public
Further south we visited Smithville. In 1787, a single room was opened by James Baremore along a busy stagecoach route. That room is now the Smithville Inn and is part of the Towne of Historic Smithville. With Lake Meone at the centre and cobblestone walkways and foot bridges to meander along, the village is made up of specialty shops, eateries and accommodation.
And then we arrived in Atlantic City. With its pier, boardwalk, bright lights, big hotels and casinos, it was like being in a cross between Blackpool and Las Vegas. But without all the people 😂 We loved coming to Atlantic City in November. While some areas like the pier resembled a ghost town, for the most part everything else was still open and we had the boardwalk to ourselves, the beach to ourselves and the restaurants to ourselves. We would like to come back one day in summer just for a few hours to appreciate Atlantic City in all its glory but actually, deserted Atlantic City suited us just fine.
From Atlantic City we continued South along Jersey Shore and down to Cape May. We’re currently sitting on the Cape May-Lewes Ferry watching the world go past in the sunshine as we head across the bay to Delaware. Thank you New Jersey!
Our first stop in New York was Saratoga Springs on 31st October. We were booked for a haunted hayride to give us a taste of Halloween culture but unfortunately the torrential rain put an end to that plan when it was cancelled. We do, however, have plenty of great photos we’ve been taking for weeks now of the Halloween displays we have seen in front of homes and properties as we’ve been driving past.
A ferry from Bridgeport, Connecticut got us to Port Jefferson, Long Island and we made our way to our Airbnb in Hampton Bays with spectacular views of the water. Not to be beaten by the brisk chill in the air we just layered on the socks and sweatshirts and settled onto the deck.
Setting out to explore we came across the Big Duck in Flanders, built in 1931 by a duck farmer to be used as a shop to sell ducks and duck eggs.
The Big Duck was added to the National Register of Historic Places in 1997 in recognition of Long Island’s duck farming history
Further along on the North Fork of Long Island we found a couple of wineries, out of many, to visit including Sparkling Pointe, a winery specialising only in sparkling wines.
Castello di Borghese Vineyard was the first vineyard on Long Island, established in 1973A selection of Sparkling Pointe’s wines
We made our way into Greenport where we wandered along the waterfront and through the village center, sampling the fresh seafood on offer along the way.
Locals enjoying the sunshine and oystersFreshly shucked oysters prepared with the a chipotle /bourbon/parmesan toppingFresh crab and slaw roll
Two short ferry rides and a drive through Shelter Island brought us to Sag Harbor where we met up with friends Margaret and Alison. It has been 16 years since I saw Margaret and we had an fantastic catch up over gourmet tacos at K Pasa. We’re looking forward to meeting up again, next time in Australia!
Alison & MargaretLamb taco with pomegranate, mint chimichurri and fetaPortobello, shitake and oyster mushroom tacoThere are eleven historic windmills scattered throughout the HamptonsSag Harbor’s South Ferry terminal
Making the most of Long Island’s glorious blue skies, we drove along the South Fork and visited the lighthouse and museum at Montauk Point. Montauk Point is also known as “The End” as it is both the island and New York’s easternmost point. Montauk Light is the fourth-oldest active lighthouse in the United States and has been operational since 1797.
The light flashes every five seconds and can be seen off shore from 19 nautical miles awayThe view from the top of the lighthouse
Long Island, thank you for the blue skies after our last few days of driving through rain and for turning on the sun for Sue’s last couple of days with us. We bid Sue goodbye as she leaves us tomorrow for warmer weather in Hawaii before heading home. And New York, we’ll see you back in Manhattan for Christmas!
Vermont: our final state in New England. And what better way to start our sightseeing than with a bit of Hollywood history. After leaving Austria, the von Trapp family portrayed in The Sound of Music settled in Stowe, opening their home to friends from all over the world who they met while traveling as the Trapp Family Singers. Now a sprawling lodge with a bierhaus and bakery to visit and the family cemetery, the story of Maria and Georg von Trapp and their children lives on in the hills of Vermont. After growing up with the movie and the songs it was quite special to pay homage to the real von Trapp family.
The Trapp Family Lodge. When the original home burned down in 1980, the only remaining piece was the bell that now sits atop lodge above the entrance.Today the Lodge continues to be owned and managed by the von Trapp familyThe resting place of Georg and Maria von TrappThe cast of the movie remained close to the real von Trapp children. Werner von Trapp was portrayed as Kurt in the movie.
A drive around the outskirts of Stowe led us to a couple of the remaining New England covered bridges that are still in use today. Stowe even has a covered footbridge in the town centre.
Gold Brook Bridge, also known as Emily’s Bridge, built 1844Known as Emily’s Bridge, the story goes that Emily was jilted by her intended on their wedding day and, in despair, she took her life at the bridgeRed Bridge, built 1896Red BridgeStowe Walkway Bridge
As Vermont’s largest town, Stowe seems to seamlessly blend together its farming community, pretty scenery and status as a ski resort. Farmhouses are nestled into the hills surrounding the town and town center is filled with locals and tourists alike.
The Stowe Community Church became one of the first non-denominational churches in America when Stowe’s individual religious groups decided to band together for a more cooperative effort. It was built in 1863 and has the tallest steeple in Vermont.The Akeley Soldiers Memorial Building pays homage to those who fought in the Civil War and is also home to the local theatre.
Vermont has two waterfalls that share the same name, the Moss Glen Falls. One required a scramble up a hill to the viewpoint and the other was a walk down the highway in the pouring rain but both were beautiful to stand in front of.
The Moss Glen Falls of Stowe The Moss Glen Falls of GranvilleDeer Hollow Brook
On the way out of Stowe we visited the Ben & Jerry ice cream factory in Waterbury. Well it only seemed fitting seeing as Ben & Jerry’s ice cream was born in Vermont, the creation borne of a $5 correspondence course in ice cream making, a $12,000 investment and a renovated gas station to house the first shop. Ben & Jerry’s ice cream is now sold the world over.
The milk, cream, sugar and eggs that are used in Ben & Jerry’s base ice cream are all locally sourced in VermontThe Flavor Lab where new flavours are created and where Ben & Jerry’s famous Cookie Dough and Chunky Monkey were bornCoffee Coffee BuzzBuzzBuzzBecause it was Halloween we were treated to a new flavor of ice cream especially created for the occasion and not available in stores
Also on the Ben & Jerry property is the Flavor Graveyard where respects can be paid to flavors past created and now no longer to be found. Of the 400 discontinued flavours, 42 can be found in this graveyard.
Our final stop in Vermont was a family-run working maple farm. As the leading producer of maple syrup in the country, Vermont annually produces about 2 million gallons. At Sugarbush Farm in Woodstock we checked out how the farm runs, how maple syrup is made and very definitely how it tastes 😂
The evaporator used to turn sap into syrupForty gallons of sap, ie the blue barrel, is needed to make one gallon of syrup (the bottle sitting beside it)Spud and Ben, the farm’s Belgian draught horses
Our New England chapter is now complete and it has been fantastic. The leaves have been amazing and the lobster delicious. On to New York now as we start to head south down the east coast.
From Maine we headed for our Airbnb in Lincoln, nestled in the heart of the White Mountains of New Hampshire, which cover approximately a quarter of the state. Like the rest of its New England cousins, New Hampshire’s scenery is like something out of a picturebook, with a different vista to admire around every corner. From Lincoln we did a loop drive up to Littleton, back east to Conway through the forest and along the beautiful Kancamagus Scenic Byway back to Lincoln.
The White Mountains in the distance, completely buried in a bank of thick pillowy clouds
Our drive took us first to the home and museum of American poet Robert Frost. Although the museum has closed for the winter, the property and porch of the house is open for visitors all year round. When we arrived Maudelle, the museum’s executive director, and her dog Auggie, were there closing up the house and they welcomed us with open arms to give us a tour and walk through the house.
We have been humbled by the generosity and warmth of the people we have met on our travels through the States and Maudelle’s hospitality again reinforced this for us. Learning that we are on a 50-state tour of America, she so willingly took the time out of her day to allow us to see inside the house and where Robert Frost and his family lived and summer vacationed for many years.
The Frost PlaceFrost’s writing chair and the house’s original coal stoveAuggie
On our way from the The Frost Place to Littleton, we discovered a little bit of New Hampshire history. In the town of Franconia on the banks of the Gale River stands an octagonal stone formation, the only remains of an iron furnace dating back to 1805. Once one of many iron furnaces in New England, it was abandoned in 1870 after the Civil War led to iron furnaces opening in Pennsylvania, closer to where they were needed.
Wrought iron bridge, 1889Always happy to discover a country cheese storeThe trees in New Hampshire are definitely getting ready for winter.
A stop in Littleton brought us to the birthplace of Eleanor H Porter, author of Pollyanna, and the home of Chutters, proffering the world’s longest candy counter.
Pollyanna stands proud in the main street of LittletonThe Chutters candy counter stretches 112 feet long and holds glass jars filled with jellybeans, chocolates, licorice, caramels and much moreAn entire rainbow worth of jellybeans
We wound our way through little towns filled with charming churches, chalets and hotels waiting for their winter skiing guests and reminders that Halloween is just around the corner.
Ivie Memorial Chapel, 1931, in BethlehemIvie Memorial Chapel, 1931The Mount Washington Resort
The drive back to Lincoln included the Kancamagus Scenic Byway along NH-112, a national scenic byway. The surrounding mountains and the Swift River running parallel to the road make for a stunning 34.5mi/55.5km drive. And while we are clearly at the end of the fall foliage season in New Hampshire, the few remaining bursts of color we came across offer a brilliant contrast to their stark backdrop.
Swift RiverThe Russell-Colbath House, built in 1832, and the valley’s earliest remaining farmhouse
WOW. Maine’s fall leaves are just stunning. Even more so than all the leaves we’ve seen so far, if that’s at all possible. Between the colours, the lobster, the pumpkins and the sunrises, Maine’s beauty had us speechless at times. We started in Phippsburg where the lobster was delicious and the sunrise was glorious, even if my phone caught it in reds and oranges and my camera captured it in pinks and purples. Same sunrise. Different colours. Both brilliant.
Lobster rollLobster biscuits
Pumpkin farms lined the roads with flashes of orange as we drove past. I was excited the owner of Maple Leaf Farm was happy for me to take photos without buying a pumpkin. The owner was excited that she had her first Kiwi visiting her pumpkin farm 😂
The drive from Phippsburg to Bar Harbor was so lovely I’m just going to post the photos for you to see for yourselves – not that the photos can convey how picturesque it is here.
And when we thought Maine couldn’t get any more striking, we drove around Acadia National Park and were proved wrong. From the calm ponds to the waves crashing onto the rocky shoreline, Acadia is easily one of the most beautiful national parks we have been to. Also, I know there are a lot of reflection photos in this post, but it just can’t be helped; it’s like being in some sort of watercolor kaleidoscope.
As we wave goodbye to Maine, we have officially crossed the halfway point of our road trip. Maine is our 25th state and New Hampshire, you are leading the way for the remaining 25 states. This journey has been incredible so far and we can’t wait to see the rest of America!
