Author: Priya Nayar

Picking up Ruby from the ferry terminal, we headed to Hubbard Lake where we had an Airbnb for a couple of nights en route to Detroit. The cabin was 10 steps from the private jetty and while it was way too cold to dip a foot in the water, we had a relaxing 48 hours here rugged up and warm inside the cabin with board games, Netflix and a great view of the lake.

We also spent our Sunday cheering on (long-distance) our friend Ryan who was racing in the Spartan World Championships in Lake Tahoe. We wanted to be there in person to cheer for him but the logistics of timing and distance proved to be too much. Inspired by his daughter, Ryan is an obstacle course racer and raises money for the CARES Foundation who are committed to improving the lives of families and individuals affected by Congenital Adrenal Hyperplasia (CAH). If you would like to donate to this worthy cause and help Ryan reach his fundraising goal, please visit www.bit.ly/Peden2019.

Our first stop in Detroit: The Henry Ford. This sprawling complex is made up of the Ford factory, the Museum of American Innovation and Greenfield Village. With limited time at our disposal we opted to visit Greenfield Village. Greenfield Village is Henry Ford’s creation to showcase America’s history of life and work. Incorporating a railroad track with running steam train, a working farm and historical buildings which Ford moved from their original locations to make up the Village, this is an outdoor living history museum full of fascinating exhibits, modes of transportation and plenty of history to absorb including the work of not just Henry Ford but Thomas Edison and the Wright brothers.

We were a little apprehensive about visiting Detroit due to the preemptive reviews of the city we were given by others. So with the words ‘drab’, ‘dirty’ and ‘run down’ ringing in our ears, imagine our complete surprise when we were met by a city that was bright, light and by far one of the cleanest cities in America we have visited so far. In fairness, we now understand that Detroit has been through a somewhat rough past and not so long ago it wasn’t a particularly pleasant city to visit. But we have to tell you that the investment and hard work that has gone into making Detroit a city to be proud of has paid off.

We signed up to do a walking tour with City Tour Detroit and were rewarded with Nancy, our tour guide, whose love for Detroit is so palpable it is practically contagious. Leading us through the city, Nancy introduced us to buildings, statues and different areas of the city as well as Detroit’s history. Thank you Nancy for such a great tour; we will be back to visit Detroit for sure! Also, a big hello to our friend David in Doha – known to us as Detroit Dave… your hometown treated us well!

One of the highlights of our walking tour was when Nancy took us into the Guardian Building. Completed in 1929 and originally called the Union Trust Building, it is a superb example of Art Deco architecture. However what makes it strikingly different to its counterparts is the fact that Wirt Rowland, the architect, abandoned the usual Art Deco materials such as bronze and brass, in favor of colored brick, terra-cotta and stone.

A stop at the Detroit Institute of Art took us to the Rivera Court where we saw the spectacular Detroit Industry Murals, painted by Diego Rivera between 1932 and 1933. It was Rivera’s belief that these murals were his finest works of art. He considered the murals a tribute to Detroit’s labour force and industries and modeled the murals upon the Ford motor plant.

Our final Detroit stop was at the Motown Museum on West Grand Boulevard. Nicknamed Hitsville USA, the first headquarters of the Motown record label was purchased in 1959 by founder Berry Gordon. We toured the museum and the studio building, finishing in the famous Motown Studio A, home to Motown smash hits from 1959 to 1972. After seeing the Motown Musical in London last year, this tour was particularly great for us.

From Mackinac Island to Motown, we have thoroughly enjoyed the state of Michigan. Now we head to Niagara to check out a really big waterfall ☺️

P&S

If you live in America and have not been to Mackinac Island, pack a bag and come. In fact if you don’t live in America and have not been to Mackinac Island, pack a bag and come. This place is like stepping into a picture postcard. From first sight as the ferry approaches the island, with its quaint hotels and church steeples nestled amongst the trees, it captures your imagination and is like stepping back in time.

Michigan’s Mackinac Island (pronounced: MACK-in-awe) is located in Lake Huron. We left Ruby for a well deserved rest at the Star Line Ferry terminal in Mackinaw City and took the 20 minute ride over to the island. Stepping off the boat, the first thing we noticed were the hundreds of bikes available for hire. The second thing we noticed was as we stepped onto the main street: horses and carriages making their way up and down the street and not a car to be seen. Mackinac Island banned almost all motor vehicles in 1898, the exceptions being construction and emergency vehicles. The only motorised vehicle we saw in the time we were here was a ride-on mower on the golf course. That being the golf course which has 9 holes on one side of the island and then you catch the horse buggy to the back 9 holes across the island.

The main street is lined with charming boutiques, mouthwatering eateries and a plethora of shops selling popcorn, nut brittle and the fudge for which the island is known.

We took a horse and carriage tour around the island. Great commentary was given from our horse driver with loads of information about the island’s history, buildings and day to day life on the island today. The tour took us to a butterfly conservatory, Arch Rock and to Fort Mackinac sitting above the harbour. The Fort was a military outpost for the Americans and British and played a pivotal role in controlling the Great Lakes fur trade. Now preserved with its original buildings intact, there are rifle demonstrations and canon firings every half hour which can be heard around the island. 

A bike ride around the 13km/8.2mi perimeter of the island tested Pri’s already questionable sense of balance but brought views that were simply dazzling. We love that the road encircling the island is the same main road that runs through the town and is classified as State Highway M-185.

A huge shout out to Stephanie, Trish, Justin and Summer at Yankee Rebel Tavern. Other places on the island were great with really good food but we kept finding ourselves drawn back to this fine establishment and their amazing service, food and beverages.

After a super couple of days on Mackinac Island we now return to the mainland and Ruby, ready to continue our road trip ☺️
S&P

We weren’t sure quite what to make of Cleveland to begin with. At first sight, it seems to be a city at odds with itself. Lovely old churches, a tangle of bridges, construction and roadworks, and gardens and memorials all seem to be vying for attention against each other. Nestled along the shoreline of Lake Erie, there’s a feeling of something waiting to be discovered but lots of confusion in the way. So many great things to see and do and look at, but somehow getting lost amongst all the apartment buildings springing up all over the place.

But then, with a little patience and guidance, we started to see past all the noise and enjoyed Cleveland for the city that it was, is and is on the way to becoming. Between the beautiful buildings, cultural gardens, memorials and statues, and the largest outdoor chandelier, Cleveland kept us on our toes from the time we got here to the time we left.

But for us the highlight of Cleveland was the Rock and Roll Hall of Fame (although the chandelier ran a very close second for Pri). Simply terrific. Housed inside a glass tent that sparkles in the sun, the Hall of Fame honors not just inductees, but the entire history of rock and roll. We successfully managed to spend almost four hours here as we read everything, saw everything, watched everything and listened to everything that the museum offers. With music to listen to, recorded documentaries and concerts to watch, a studio in which to record your own music and memorabila galore, anyone who likes music must make a visit here if you’re in Cleveland.

We loved the Cultural Gardens of Cleveland. An entire street lined with gardens specially designed by and for different nations around the world. We also loved the sunsets over Lake Erie, a stark contrast to the angry choppy water on display when we were there.

Next stop: Toledo. Or, if like Sammy you’re a staunch fan of M*A*S*H, also known as Klinger’s hometown. Our first port of call was to Tony Packo’s, the Toledo cafe serving up Hungarian hotdogs and chili and mentioned several times by Klinger throughout the duration of the show. The food was good and the reminders of M*A*S*H all around the walls made for a very happy Sammy. Plus it was Two Dollar Tuesday for the hotdogs which made them taste even better 😂

The Glass Pavilion pays due to Toledo as the Glass City. This nickname was earned by playing host to many glass companies over the years, most notably Libbey Glass Company, the leading glass manufacturer in America, which moved to Toledo in 1888. The Pavilion houses an impressive historical collection of glassworks, one of the most extensive in the world.

While we were visiting the museum, we had the opportunity to watch Robert Zollweg, design and creative director of Libbey’s for over 40 years, give a sandcasting demonstration as part of a guest project he is working on in collaboration with the Pavilion.

Ohio, you surprised and impressed us. A big thank you to rock and roll and to Klinger for your recommendations. Let us say goodbye for now as we drive into Michigan for a few days of lakeside relaxing.

P&S

So it turns out that the late John Denver really did know what he was singing about when he introduced us to country roads taking him home. West Virginia seemed to start working its magic as soon as we crossed its border. The Mountain State instilled in us a sense of calm as the road cut a path through the hills surrounding us and eventually led us across the Kanawha River into Charleston, capital of West Virginia.

A visit to the Capitol Market filled us with Harvest Festival fever. As well as the fantastic fresh fruit, vegetables and flowers on offer was the most amazing array of pumpkins and corn we have ever seen in all shapes, sizes and colours. Even more fascinating than the sight of all the pumpkins was the intense concentration that seems to go into selecting pumpkins to decorate front porches. Harried husbands were at the mercy of determined wives pointing at pumpkins for retrieval which were then subjected to close inspection before being either scornfully rejected or placed in the cart.

Housed in the century-old railway depot, the market has given the space a new lease of life with the outdoor farmers market and indoor specialty shops. We were struck by the enormous pride the local vendors have in selling the wide variety of West Virginia made goods and products.

After the decadent chicken and biscuits of Kentucky, we fell in love with the West Virginia cuisine that uses local seasonal produce.

Heading out of Charleston, we passed through patriotic towns with flags adorning the main street and homes decorated for Harvest Festival. The simple beauty of this state literally made us just slow down and appreciate how lucky we are to have the opportunity to have this adventure.

Then in stark contrast to all this home grown wholesomeness, we paid a visit to the infamous West Virginia Penitentiary. To our macabre delight, it was such a great visit. It was akin to visiting the set of Shawshank Redemption, Orange Is The New Black, Prison Break and The Green Mile all rolled into one. Operational from 1876 to 1995, the West Virginia Penitentiary is an enormous building that looms over you as you approach it and frankly would have scared the daylights out of anyone coming to visit the place in days gone by. Ninety four men in total were executed at the prison; by hanging until 1949 and then by Old Sparky, the electric chair, until 1965 when capital punishment in West Virginia was abolished. The penitentiary was eventually closed down in the face of a checkered history of riots, murders, escaped inmates, inhumane treatment and its tiny cells being deemed as cruel and unusual punishment.

And so with hearts full of harvest goodness and a slice of notorious history, we leave West Virginia behind and go to find Ohio.

P&S

As we drove into Kentucky we completely forgot about crossing from Central to Eastern time and had to reschedule our planned visit to Churchill Downs. So with a free afternoon suddenly upon us, we set off to pay homage to Colonel Sanders. We headed for the Claudia Sanders Dinner House in Shelbyville which serves homestyle Southern fare including the essential fried chicken. The building initially served as part of the Kentucky Fried Chicken Headquarters in 1959 and after selling the company in 1964, Colonel Sanders and his wife Claudia continued to serve chicken and other homestyle cooking in the restaurant. Great ambience, great service and great food. And we absolutely do not need to eat any more carbs for a month following this meal.

We were up early for the first part of our Churchill Downs experience. Very much like standing on the quiet Indy 500 track, seeing the horses training on the world-famous track in the still of the early morning was at complete odds with the racing frenzy that is seen on TV on the first Saturday of May when the Kentucky Derby is run. With the Twin Spires rising over us, we saw the track, watched the horses, and learned about the history of the “Run For The Roses”, including its past winners, most notably Sercretariat, a triple crown winner in 1973. Secretariat won the Belmont Stakes that year by a record breaking 31 lengths and his time for the Kentucky Derby remains unbeaten today.

We took a tour of the barns and stables and saw where the horses, trainers and jockeys live and work when not on the racetrack. Later in the evening we returned to Churchill Downs for the second part of our experience here as we attended the Twilight Races and had fun picking horses, placing wagers, and drinking mint juleps.

A short jaunt from Louisville to Woodford County took us into Bluegrass country and the Woodford Reserve Distillery. While the Woodford Reserve brand has only been on the market since 1996, the distillery itself has existed since 1812 and is one of the oldest in Kentucky. A designated National Historic Landmark, the distillery is home to beautiful old buildings and grounds that house its colossal fermenters, copperpot stills and 500ft barrel run.

An unplanned bonus stop in Kentucky was at DeLima Stables in Harrodsburg, owned and operated by our friend Margaret’s sister Mary. We spent time throwing questions at Mary and her friend Donna about the horses, the stables and winters in Kentucky, watching the horses feed and breathing in the fresh air. Thank you Mary for your time and willingness to see us on short notice ☺️ – it was amazing!

From DeLima Stables we went to Shakertown, a few minutes down the road where we discovered the world of the Shakers. This community set up home in Pleasant Hill, Kentucky from 1805 to 1910 with the intention of creating a heaven on earth. With a leaning towards plentiful singing and dancing in their worship the Shakers earned a reputation as industrious and progressive. Despite becoming a thriving community however, by the turn of the century numbers had dramatically dwindled for various reasons, not least because of their belief in celibacy, and there are only two living Shakers today. Shakertown is now a National Historic Landmark District.

As we headed out of Kentucky, over the river and through the Daniel Boone National Park, we were surrounded by trees beginning to take on their fall colours and at times it felt like we were driving through a watercolour painting. I promise I did not use any filters on the following two photos – this is exactly how it looked as we crossed the Kentucky River. 

Into West Virginia we go!
S&P

My oh my. Chicago. We decided we liked the Windy City before we even got out of the car. Then our friend Kathleen made us fall completely in love with it. Chicago born and bred, Kathleen was our amazing tour guide as we roamed through her hometown and saw the city through her eyes.

Up on the Sky Deck on the 103rd floor of Willis (formerly Sears) Tower, we got superb views of Chicago and all that surrounds her.

Wandering through the Monadnock Building we were swept back to 1893 with its ornate aluminium staircases and quaint stores that belong in a time gone by.

We travelled from Quincy Station towards Michigan Avenue on the ‘L’ (short for elevated) train where we crossed over Michigan Avenue (DuSable) Bridge, wandered along the Magnificent Mile and took in the sights of Wrigley Building, the Chicago Water Tower and Lookingglass Theater. We absorbed the atmosphere of downtown Chicago before heading along Lake Shore Drive towards Navy Pier and Millennium Park.

An architectural tour along the Chicago River gave us spectacular views by night as we learned about many of Chicago’s buildings along with some history of the city itself.

The next couple of days were spent further exploring Chicago and her architecture, history, food and nature.

Chicago is truly superb on it’s own. But our visit here was made richer with the opportunity to catch up with several friends. While it’s been a relatively short time since we last saw Lisa and Steff, and a couple of years since we saw Kathleen, it has been fifteen years since Christine and I crossed paths. Kathleen also took us to her family home to meet her family who have now become part of our extended family. Thank you to everyone for sharing your homes, families, neighbors and doggies with us and for being part of our Chicago story.

To everyone who told us we would love Chicago, give yourself a pat on the back. You were absolutely right. We now leave Illinois for a taste of bourbon and a flutter on the horses in Kentucky!

S&P

“Take me out to the ball game,
Take me out with the crowd;
Buy me some peanuts and Cracker Jack,
I don’t care if I never get back….”

The day started with rain, thunder and lightening and yet again St Merdad, patron saint against bad weather, worked his magic for us and brought out the sun over Wrigley Field for the Chicago Cubs vs the Pittsburgh Pirates. Jan, a die-hard Cubs fan, was excited to share with us the experience of a home game and we were just as excited to attend. Our excitement escalated when we walked into Casey Moran’s for pre-game lunch to find our good friend Brian waiting for us at the table. Brian, a die-hard St Louis Cardinals fan, had flown up from Missouri to see us. Thank you, Brian, for enduring a Cubs game for us and thank you Jan for conspiring with Brian to surprise us. Surprise us you did – very well played! ☺️

By the time we left Casey Moran’s the place was packed with Cubs fans. Walking to Wrigley Field we passed merchandise stalls as we moved through a sea of Cubs colours. Entering Wrigley Field is an experience in itself. Nicknamed the Friendly Confines, Wrigley Field has been home to the Chicago Cubs since 1916 and is the oldest park in the National League. With its iconic red marquee over the main entrance, ivy-covered outfield walls and hand-turned scoreboard, it was designated as a National Historic Landmark in 1987.

Added to the beauty of the park was the building excitement of the home team’s fans as they started to pour into the ball park. Pre-game entertainment was provided by the Hampton University and Howard University Bands. Vendors deftly moved up and down the aisles as they sold hot dogs and beer. The game was dedicated to the paediatric cancer patients of Lurie Children’s Hospital and we watched and cheered as a group of kids made their way onto the field and a ceremonial pitch was tossed by one of them. The crowd stood for the national anthem. And then it was 3.05pm and play began.

The cheers of the home crowd were deafening as the Cubs scored home run after home run including a grand slam by Anthony Rizzo. It was truly a smashing experience to attend the game and absorb the pride and joy the fans hold for their team. Just over four hours after the game began, the Cubs brought home a 17-8 win over the Pirates. Flags bearing a huge blue W for Win were brandished by ecstatic fans as the crowd sang the Cubs’ victory song ‘Go Cubs Go’.

Thank you Jan and Brian, thank you Cubs and thank you Chicago for a brilliant day!

P&S

We began in Indiana by visiting the world famous Indianapolis Motor Speedway, fondly nicknamed ‘The Brickyard’, after the 3.2 million bricks that originally paved the track. Built in 1909, the 2.5mi/4km oval speedway saw the first ‘Indy 500’ raced on Memorial Day, 30 May 1911. Today the race takes place in front of a sellout crowd of approximately 300,000 spectators each year. It was a remarkable yet strange feeling to stand on the track in calm and silence and imagine the noise and chaos of engines, drivers, spectators and commentators filling the air. The tour we did was capped off with a visit to the museum to see the history of ‘The Greatest Spectacle In Racing’ on display.

September 11th 2001. It has been 18 years since the World Trade Center tragedy and the grief across the nation is still very much palpable as we observed flags at half-mast everywhere we looked. Grateful to have a day where we were not driving for hours, we were able to visit the 9/11 Memorial in Indianapolis and pay our respects.

Jumping on a trolley tour in Indianapolis, we took in the State Capitol, Veterans Memorial Plaza, Christ Church Cathedral and the Downtown Canal and got a great introduction to the city. Indiana limestone is used in many of Indiana’s impressive historical buildings, including the Indiana State Soldiers and Sailors Monument on Monument Circle.

We arrived in La Porte to stay with our friends Jan and John. Reunions are a definite highlight of this trip and we are so lucky to be able to see and spend time with good friends.

Making the most of Indiana’s sunshine we went to Dunes State Park, 40 minutes from La Porte, to see and walk amongst the towering sand dunes along Lake Michigan’s southern shoreline. Indiana Dunes consists of 2,182 acres of beautiful sandy hills that have taken thousands of years to form. As we walked along the shores of Lake Michigan we yet again wondered at the broad spectrum of landscapes this country has to offer.

From the Dunes to the University of Notre Dame…. what a spectacular campus. Not used to seeing universities like this in Australia or New Zealand, we wandered around the campus a little awestruck at the buildings and polished grounds. The university shop alone was like a department store. And the interior of the Basilica is simply celestial.

Our Indiana tour has taken us from the impressiveness of standing on the Indy 500 Speedway to the sadness felt alongside Americans on September 11; from the excitement of catching up with friends from Doha to yet again experiencing the bounty of nature that this country has to offer. We won’t forget you Indiana ☺️

P&S

From Wisconsin we crossed back over the Mississippi into Dubuque and on into Iowa country. After stopping in Cascade for lunch – touted on the highway billboard as “historical Cascade with shopping and eateries” – we discovered the entire town was deserted and shut down because everyone was attending a wedding. So a Subway sandwich later (because it was literally the only shop open in the entire town) we continued on our way. Rainclouds became more ominous as we got closer to Winterset and we have never seen clouds like we have in the Iowa skies.

Winterset is located in Madison County, home to the covered bridges made famous by Clint Eastwood and Meryl Streep’s The Bridges of Madison County. The timber-truss bridges were built in the late 19th century to facilitate transport over waterways and were covered to protect the wooden beams from inclement weather and subsequently decaying. The bridges were added to the National Register of Historic Places in the 1970’s. Of the 19 covered bridges that were built in Madison County, only 6 remain today and so off we went to find them.

Winterset possesses all the charm that we imagined American small towns to have. The town is centred around the courthouse in the middle of the town square. Immaculate storefronts line the surrounding streets and every person we met from Suzy our Airbnb host to Melissa our waitress in the Northside Cafe was so genuinely warm and welcoming. We had a fantastic time in Winterset exploring the town and meeting the locals.

Winterset is the birthplace of John Wayne and you can visit the house he was born in and the neighbouring museum. Also in Winterset is the Iowa Quilt Museum, exhibiting vintage and modern quilts.

Last on our list of things to do in Winterset was to visit the local winery and cidery. Winterset Cidery boasts an array of ciders in different flavors and a rainbow of colours; Covered Bridges Winery not only offered excellent wine tasting but also introduced us to the wonder of the winerita: wine slushies.

As we left Madison County and headed towards the Mississippi again, we made a stop in Iowa’s capital of Des Moines. We wandered around Des Moines’ East Village as the mist began to slowly clear. One of the city’s oldest – and most eclectic – neighbourhoods dating from the 19th century, the East Village is home to several of the state’s most important buildings, including the Iowa State Capitol. The State Capitol was built from 1871 to 1886, and has the distinction of being the only five-domed capitol in the country.

Wrapping up a great few days in Iowa we now continue our journey as we excitedly head to Indiana and Illinois to continue exploring the Midwest, catch up with good friends and attend our first ball game!

S&P

Anyone who knows Wisconsin as well as they know the Priya half of this road-tripping duo will know exactly why I was looking forward to our ninth state with excitement….. cheese ☺️

Our first Wisconsin stop was nine minutes after crossing the St Croix River at the Bass Lake Cheese Factory. The Bass Lake Cheese Factory was established in 1918 and has since passed through the hands of four families. Down a country road in the middle of nowhere and across from a corn field, this cheese shop was a very happy introduction to the world of Wisconsin cheese. While we waited for our first experience of deep fried cheese curds to arrive, we were kindly offered a 6-cheese sampler platter which included pickled cheese, buffalo wing cheese and onion and chive cheese. And we thought all of these were great till the deep fried cheese curds came fresh and hot out of the kitchen. There are no adequate words to describe these gastronomic pockets of crumbed gooey melty pillowy cheese. We left the Bass Lake Cheese Factory with delighted tummies and a bag full of various cheeses to sustain us.

Heading north, we made our way to Ashland. Staying on Lake Superior was a Wisconsin must-do for us and the Airbnb we chose, Norrsken Cottage, was absolutely perfect. Superbly hosted by Kevin and Steve, the cottage is metres from the lake’s edge, surrounded by trees and while only minutes away from the town of Ashland, seems a world away from anywhere else. Kevin and Steve did everything to make sure our stay here was second to none. We’ve already decided we’re coming back during a future winter to stay and walk over the frozen lake!

In Ashland we were taken with the murals that decorate the walls of the township. Painted by two northern Wisconsin artists, these beautiful paintings reflect the history of Ashland and give the town a personality of it’s own. 

A drive to Bayfield took us to Apostle Island Cruises. Yet again the weather gods came through for us and while the drive to Bayfield was wet and miserable, as soon as we boarded the boat the skies cleared and the rain stopped. For two and a half hours, we cruised over Lake Superior and along the Apostle Islands National Lakeshore. Apostle Islands National Lakeshore is a coastal national park and is made up of 21 islands and 12 miles of mainland. Known as the Jewels of Lake Superior, the Apostle Islands provide dramatic backdrops from Hermit Island’s brownstone cliffs to lighthouses to Devils Island’s sea caves.

Driving through the Northwoods of Wisconsin, we made a stop at the Delta Diner on our way down to the Wisconsin Dells. Located in the middle of the woods, Delta Diner has been lovingly rebuilt to the glory of a 1940s diner with friendly waitresses, blueplate specials and delicious food and it was a fabulous dining experience.
As we drove through the trees to make our way south, we were treated to the foliage starting to change colour on the trees around us. Still a sea of green but with beautiful splashes of red, orange and yellow starting to make their way in. 

Our final stop was in Wisconsin Dells. Taking an Original Duck Tour, we set off through the trees before driving into the river whereupon we travelled along the Dells of the Wisconsin River. This 8km/5mi stretch of river is lined with unique sandstone formations that date back to the last ice age, approximately 15,000 years ago.

Wisconsin you have been terrific. Your scenery, your cuisine and your people have made our journey here a happy one. Thank you!
P&S