Cleveland & Toledo

We weren’t sure quite what to make of Cleveland to begin with. At first sight, it seems to be a city at odds with itself. Lovely old churches, a tangle of bridges, construction and roadworks, and gardens and memorials all seem to be vying for attention against each other. Nestled along the shoreline of Lake Erie, there’s a feeling of something waiting to be discovered but lots of confusion in the way. So many great things to see and do and look at, but somehow getting lost amongst all the apartment buildings springing up all over the place.

But then, with a little patience and guidance, we started to see past all the noise and enjoyed Cleveland for the city that it was, is and is on the way to becoming. Between the beautiful buildings, cultural gardens, memorials and statues, and the largest outdoor chandelier, Cleveland kept us on our toes from the time we got here to the time we left.

The Detroit-Superior Bridge and Cuyahoga River
At 52 stories, Terminal Tower was the second tallest building in the world upon completion in 1930
The Fountain of Eternal Life honors veterans from Greater Cleveland and is a celebration of peace. It is also known as the War Memorial Mountain or Peace Arising from the Flames of War.
FirstEnergy Stadium, home of NFL’s Cleveland Browns
Cleveland’s horizon is dotted with abandoned bascule bridges which serve as reminder of Cleveland’s manufacturing history. In the past, seven different railroad lines ran through Cleveland, needing bridges to get them across the Cuyahoga River.
Cleveland Fire Fighters Memorial
The world’s largest outdoor chandelier: it hangs 13.4m/44ft above the street in historic Playhouse Square. It is 6m/20ft tall and is made up of 4200 crystals.

But for us the highlight of Cleveland was the Rock and Roll Hall of Fame (although the chandelier ran a very close second for Pri). Simply terrific. Housed inside a glass tent that sparkles in the sun, the Hall of Fame honors not just inductees, but the entire history of rock and roll. We successfully managed to spend almost four hours here as we read everything, saw everything, watched everything and listened to everything that the museum offers. With music to listen to, recorded documentaries and concerts to watch, a studio in which to record your own music and memorabila galore, anyone who likes music must make a visit here if you’re in Cleveland.

The Rock and Roll Hall of Fame
A great section dedicated to the King of Rock and Roll, including a short film featuring commentary from Lisa Marie and Priscilla
The Museum boasts an amazing collection of memorabilia
Memorabilia includes clothing worn by artists in years gone by
The jacket Michael Jackson wore to the 1984 Grammys
Jimi Hendrix’s patchwork jacket

We loved the Cultural Gardens of Cleveland. An entire street lined with gardens specially designed by and for different nations around the world. We also loved the sunsets over Lake Erie, a stark contrast to the angry choppy water on display when we were there.

India’s Garden
Ireland’s Garden
Syria’s Garden
Sunset over Lake Erie and Edgewater Pier

Next stop: Toledo. Or, if like Sammy you’re a staunch fan of M*A*S*H, also known as Klinger’s hometown. Our first port of call was to Tony Packo’s, the Toledo cafe serving up Hungarian hotdogs and chili and mentioned several times by Klinger throughout the duration of the show. The food was good and the reminders of M*A*S*H all around the walls made for a very happy Sammy. Plus it was Two Dollar Tuesday for the hotdogs which made them taste even better 😂

Tony Packo’s Cafe
Hungarian hotdogs and chili

The Glass Pavilion pays due to Toledo as the Glass City. This nickname was earned by playing host to many glass companies over the years, most notably Libbey Glass Company, the leading glass manufacturer in America, which moved to Toledo in 1888. The Pavilion houses an impressive historical collection of glassworks, one of the most extensive in the world.

Victorian Cameo Glass Vases, circa 1895
Tiffany vase, circa 1913
Dress Impression with Train, 2007
Medallion with a Portrait of King Louis XIV, circa 1675-85

While we were visiting the museum, we had the opportunity to watch Robert Zollweg, design and creative director of Libbey’s for over 40 years, give a sandcasting demonstration as part of a guest project he is working on in collaboration with the Pavilion.

It starts with this sand
It melts in the oven at 1204°C/2200°F …
and then is scooped with a ladle…
… and poured into the mould
Molten glass in the mould
The cooling process begins…
… and once cooled, finished and polished, will look like these

Ohio, you surprised and impressed us. A big thank you to rock and roll and to Klinger for your recommendations. Let us say goodbye for now as we drive into Michigan for a few days of lakeside relaxing.

P&S